Gold teeth replaced veils and black chadors after crossing no-man's land. Entry into Turkmenistan was arduous. Numerous officials did very little except distribute currency declaration forms. And collect $15 entry tax. They were particularly efficient at this. Outside, an Iranian truck with a load of crash-damaged cars from Dubai was inspected by a team of ten Turkmen soldiers. The eldest appeared no more than 14. For no apparent reason two orange flares were ignited.